Ningaloo and Exmouth

Ningaloo is one of the world's largest fringing reefs, stretching roughly 300 km along the coast of the North West Cape. Unlike the Great Barrier Reef, much of it lies just metres from the shore, so you can walk off a beach and snorkel over coral, fish and turtles. The Ningaloo Coast was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2011. With whale sharks, manta rays, humpback whales and the rugged gorges of Cape Range National Park, it's a highlight of any trip north.

This guide covers getting there, the main towns, Cape Range National Park, marine life seasons, safety in the water and how to protect the reef.

Getting there

From Perth, most people drive north via the Coral Coast, stopping at the Pinnacles, Kalbarri and Shark Bay before reaching Coral Bay and Exmouth. It's a drive of around 1,250 km and best spread over at least two or three days. Flights also connect Perth with Learmonth Airport, south of Exmouth, and hire cars are available.

Exmouth

Exmouth is the main town on the North West Cape, with accommodation, supermarkets, fuel, dive and tour operators, and a marina. It's the base for whale shark tours, diving, fishing charters and trips into Cape Range National Park.

Coral Bay

About 150 km south of Exmouth, Coral Bay is a small resort settlement on a sheltered bay where coral grows right up to the beach. It's ideal for easy snorkelling and family swimming. Manta ray tours operate from Coral Bay, and the bay's calm water and coral gardens can be seen from glass-bottom boats.

Cape Range National Park

Cape Range National Park covers the limestone ranges and coastline on the western side of the cape. Highlights include:

• Turquoise Bay, a white-sand beach with clear water and a popular drift snorkel.
• Oyster Stacks, a snorkelling site with coral and fish close to shore, best at higher tides.
• Yardie Creek, a gorge with red cliffs, where boat tours and walks offer a chance to see black-footed rock-wallabies.
• Mandu Mandu Gorge and Charles Knife Canyon, with walks and views over the range.

The park has campgrounds along the coast, which are popular and should be booked well in advance in the cooler months. Park entry fees apply. The Milyering Discovery Centre has information on the park and reef.

Marine life seasons

Seasons vary from year to year, but the general pattern is:

• Whale sharks: roughly March or April to July.
• Humpback whales: roughly June or July to October or November, during their migration.
• Manta rays: present year-round, particularly around Coral Bay.
• Turtles: nesting on beaches from about November to March.
• Coral spawning: usually in autumn, around March or April.

Whale shark and humpback swims are run by licensed operators following strict rules on distances and numbers in the water. Book with a licensed operator and follow their briefing.

Snorkelling safely

Ningaloo's beaches can look calm, but the reef has currents and gaps that can carry swimmers out to sea.

• Read safety signs at each beach and check current conditions.
• At Turquoise Bay, follow the signs for the drift snorkel and exit before the end of the beach. Don't get carried past the exit point.
• Never snorkel alone, and keep an eye on children.
• Wear a rash vest or stinger suit for sun protection.
• Check tides: some sites are best at higher tides when there's more water over the coral.
• Don't stand on or touch coral.

Protecting the reef

Ningaloo Marine Park has sanctuary zones where fishing and taking marine life are prohibited. Check zoning maps before fishing. Use reef-friendly practices: don't touch or stand on coral, don't feed fish, take your rubbish with you, and give turtles and other wildlife plenty of space. On nesting beaches, follow guidelines for watching turtles and keep lights off.

Weather and cyclones

The North West Cape is hot and dry. Summer temperatures can be extreme, and the region is in Australia's cyclone zone from November to April. Check the Bureau of Meteorology's cyclone information if travelling in those months. The cooler months, roughly April to October, are the most comfortable and the most popular.

Suggested itineraries

Four days. Fly into Learmonth, snorkel Turquoise Bay and Oyster Stacks, explore Yardie Creek, and take a whale shark or humpback tour in season.

One week. Add Coral Bay for manta rays and easy snorkelling, and camp in Cape Range National Park.

Part of a longer road trip. Drive up the Coral Coast from Perth, then continue inland to Karijini or north to Broome.

Common mistakes

• Underestimating currents at Turquoise Bay and other snorkel sites.
• Arriving in peak season without campground bookings.
• Standing on coral or touching marine life.
• Driving at night, when kangaroos, emus and cattle are on the road.

Travelling with children

Coral Bay is ideal for families, with calm, shallow water and coral right off the beach. Glass-bottom boat tours let younger children see the reef without getting wet. Keep a close eye on children in the water, use rash vests for sun protection and choose sheltered sites.

Fishing

Fishing is popular around Exmouth and Coral Bay, but rules apply. Check sanctuary zones, bag and size limits, and licence requirements before you fish. Recreational fishing from a boat in WA requires a licence.

Getting around

A vehicle is needed to explore Cape Range National Park. Roads to the main beaches are sealed, but distances are significant. Fill up in Exmouth before heading into the park, where there's no fuel.

Accommodation

Exmouth has hotels, caravan parks and holiday rentals, while Coral Bay's accommodation is limited and books out early. Book well ahead.

Key points

Ningaloo is a World Heritage fringing reef you can snorkel from the beach, about 1,250 km north of Perth. Visit in the cooler months for whale sharks and humpbacks, book ahead, read beach safety signs, never snorkel alone and protect the reef by following sanctuary zone rules.